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Mount Edith (north peak)

  • June 1, 2003
  • Mountain height: 2,554 m (8,377 feet)
  • Elevation gain: 1,120 m
  • Ascent time: 4:05
  • Descent time: 2:15

Scrambling with Mark and Keung.

A week before our Mount Athabasca attempt and a fairly strenuous scramble was in order. The long and steep Cory Pass approach trail made Mount Edith a good choice. We made it to Cory pass in two and a half hours, where there were spectacular views - Mounts Cory and Edith on either side, Gargoyle Valley down below, and of course, the stunning Mount Louis right in front of us to the north. The push to the summit was easy, until we came to the cliff bands. Mark tried to ascend the easier south-facing chimney, but was foiled at the top by a deadly drop-off. We then ascended the more difficult northwest chimney, which was unfortunately filled with snow and ice.

 

Mark made it up first and then threw down a short rope for Keung and I, although it was unnecessary. We decided to leave our backpacks at the bottom, as ascending the narrow chimney with them was very difficult. From the top to the chimney, the summit was only a short distance away. The notch mentioned in Kane's description was covered in snow, making it deceivingly dangerous. A crack through the snow revealed that one step onto it would have sent you plunging straight down, hundred of meters to your death.

 

The summit view was great, especially the shapely rock formations of the north side of Mount Edith, the vertical walls of its south side and the entire spectacle of Mount Louis. We spent some time enjoying the view, and then contemplated the trip to the lower centre peaks. However, given large amounts of snow on the ridge and incoming dark clouds, attempting them another day seemed like a prudent decision. 

 

The remainder of the day was great, especially a scenic little detour to Cory Pass, where we saw some great rock formations and evidence of an enormous slab avalanche. The sky also cleared for a while, enhancing the already outstanding scenery. A fantastic day!

    
Mark and Keung at Cory Pass; the summit block can be seen at the right

 

    
Striking Mount Louis as seen from Cory Pass

 

       
Mark and Keung making their way               Mark nearing the top of the ascent
towards the steep ascent gully                      gully; he backed down upon       
                                                                 reaching the top and we tried the 
                                                                 alternate route
                   

    

    
Mark ascending the more difficult chimney

 

    
A summit view, with Mount Louis to the left

 

    
Me and Keung, with part of Mount Cory behind us

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