A week before our Mount Athabasca attempt and a fairly strenuous scramble was in order. The long and steep Cory Pass approach trail made Mount Edith a good choice. We made it to Cory pass in two and a half hours, where there were spectacular views - Mounts Cory and Edith on either side, Gargoyle Valley down below, and of course, the stunning Mount Louis right in front of us to the north. The push to the summit was easy, until we came to the cliff bands. Mark tried to ascend the easier south-facing chimney, but was foiled at the top by a deadly drop-off. We then ascended the more difficult northwest chimney, which was unfortunately filled with snow and ice.
Mark made it up first and then threw down a short rope for Keung and I, although it was unnecessary. We decided to leave our backpacks at the bottom, as ascending the narrow chimney with them was very difficult. From the top to the chimney, the summit was only a short distance away. The notch mentioned in Kane's description was covered in snow, making it deceivingly dangerous. A crack through the snow revealed that one step onto it would have sent you plunging straight down, hundred of meters to your death.
The summit view was great, especially the shapely rock formations of the north side of Mount Edith, the vertical walls of its south side and the entire spectacle of Mount Louis. We spent some time enjoying the view, and then contemplated the trip to the lower centre peaks. However, given large amounts of snow on the ridge and incoming dark clouds, attempting them another day seemed like a prudent decision.
The remainder of the day was great, especially a scenic little detour to Cory Pass, where we saw some great rock formations and evidence of an enormous slab avalanche. The sky also cleared for a while, enhancing the already outstanding scenery. A fantastic day!