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Gap Peak 

  • December 7, 2003
  • Mountain height: 2,440 m (8,033 ft)
  • Elevation gain: 1,197 m
  • Ascent time: 4:55
  • Descent time: 2:50
  • Roundtrip distance: 9.6 km

Scrambling with Mark.

Another beautiful day in the mountains and another brutally grueling scramble that left us feeling like we had been hit by several trucks.... and a bus! Having summitted Mount Fable earlier this year, we chose to use Bob Spirko's ascent route that goes directly to the summit from Highway 1A and is considerably shorter than the alternative via the Mount Fable col (thanks Bob for a great description!).

 

The first section of the trip, through ankle to knee-deep snow, was exhausting and took considerably longer than anticipated. Thankfully, the west-facing slopes above the tree-line were clear of snow and travel became easier - for about 15 minutes anyway! Here, the scenery really opened up and the steep walls of the cliffs ahead, under a perfect sky, were breath-taking. Traversing around the right side of the cliffs, we found ourselves back in the deep snow. From there, the steep slope that led to the ridge screamed "avalanche", and we were quick to ascend it and make our way onto the safety of solid rock. A second cliff band was equally scenic and traversing around the left side of the overhanging rock was very enjoyable.

 

A slog up tedious rubble took us to the summit ridge, with the true summit still about a kilometer away and not yet in sight. By this time, we were absolutely knackered! It felt like the longest 4 km I had ever done and certainly attests to the general rule that winter ascents are often twice as strenuous as the same ascent in summer. Now 1:15 pm, we had to pick 2 pm as a turn-around time, as we didn't fancy descending in darkness.

 

The ridgewalk to the summit was terrific and only took about 25 minutes. The ridge was narrow at times, with drop-offs on both sides, but nothing too difficult. Snow, hardened almost to ice by the wind, made a couple of sections a little trickier. The mostly clear west-facing slopes on our left were a beautiful contrast to the snow-covered, east-facing slopes on our right and the continuing great weather added to the enjoyment of the traverse.

 

The summit view was great. Mount Fable and the traverse to Gap Peak, described in Kane's book, dominated the north-east landscape and the lengthy summit ridge and huge, vertical cliffs of Grotto Mountain stole the scene to the west. Last week's Wind Ridge looked quite puny, surrounded by The Three Sisters, Rimwall, Windtower, and Lougheed, with Goat Mountain and Mount Nestor behind. Other notable peaks making an appearance were Mounts Allan and Collembola, Pigeon, McGillivray, Heart, The Wedge, and Fisher Peak 

The descent was mercifully easy compared to the ascent and the scenery was fantastic, as the descending sun lit up cliff faces in bright shades of orange and yellow. We stumbled back to the car at 5 pm, just as darkness was setting in. Overall, a very memorable and rewarding scramble and one that we are sure to repeat.

    
Finally out of the trees, you are confronted with this very scenic wall of rock; as you can see, the sky was a beautiful dark shade of blue

 

    
The scene to the west, from the slope in the above picture; mountains visible in this picture are Lougheed, The Windtower, Goat (the little point in the distance between The Windtower and Rimwall), Rimwall, The Three Sisters, and the side of Grotto at the far right 

 

    
Approaching the first cliff band; the route goes around to the right

    

      
  Traversing the right side of the cliff band   A large icicle hanging from the top of the cliff
  through deep snow 

 

    
Mark above the first cliff band, with the second ahead and the first false summit just right of center

 

    
Mark at the first false summit, looking at the enjoyable ridgewalk to the second summit

    

    
Further along the ridge, with the true summit now in view at the right

 

    
Further still along the ridge; the true summit is now left of center; again, the colour of the sky was magnificent

 

    
Mark at the summit cairn, trying to keep one of his hands warm

 

    
Me at the summit, with Mount Fable to the right, in the background

 

    
A closer view of Mount Fable, another enjoyable scramble

 

    
The entire length of the traverse from Gap Peak to Mount Fable; the route is most often done in reverse order - Fable first, then Gap Peak, with a descent via our ascent route 

 

    
Mark on the ridge, during the descent; Mount Fable can be seen to the left

 

    
Me on the ridge, during  the descent

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