• October 26, 2003
• Mountain height: 2,450 m (8,038 feet)
• Elevation gain: approx. 1140 m
• Ascent time: 5:20
• Descent time: 3:10

Mountaineering with Mark.

From the Trans-Canada, the summit of Mount McGillivray looks like a short and easy proposition. Don't be fooled! It's longer and more challenging than you might think. We decided to take the 5.3 climbing route, as described by Tony Swain on the Bivouac website. This route gains the ridge and follows it up to the north buttress, traverses around the east side of the mountain, and then gains the summit ridge up a couple of 5.3 climbing sections.

A compass might be a good idea at the beginning, as we encountered routefinding problems and wandered too far east. Bushwhacking alongside the steep walls, we eventually found a break in the rock and managed to scramble up to the ridge. From there, a long and fairly interesting hike took us to the north buttress, where we traversed around the east side of the mountain to the climbing section. Immediately, we found a rope hanging down a steep section of rock. We tested the rope and although it looked to be quite old and worn, it did hold my weight and more. The plan was to hook the rope into my ATC and use it only as a backup, in case I fell, and to avoid climbing up it. 

The first section of climbing proved to be quite difficult and more than once, I found myself grabbing onto the rope for support and to pull myself up a couple of difficult sections, where there were inadequate foot and handholds. It took me a while, but I eventually made it up. My hands had turned in two huge ice-cubes by then and I spent a good ten minutes trying to get feeling back in them. I'm afraid that I'll have to admit that without the aid of the other rope, I probably wouldn't have been able to make it up in my scrambling boots.

There was one more climbing section before the summit ridge, but it was easier and shorter than the first. Now on the ridge, we were assaulted by an intensely strong west wind. It made travel along the ridge, slow and a little unpleasant. Only meters away from one another, we had to shout to be heard. We made it to the first summit, where we found shelter behind the cairn. After a quick rest, we decided to try for the true summit (about 100 vertical meters higher, but quite far along the ridge), with a turn around time of 30 minutes. Unfortunately, we didn't even come close and had to turn around, in order to ensure that we wouldn't be descending in the dark. The descent was easy and included two enjoyable rappels. A worthwhile trip and a good day out.

    
Mount McGillivray, as seen from Heart Mountain in December, 2003; the ascent route goes up the right side

    
Mark, with the north buttress of Mount McGillivray behind him; the ascent route goes around the left side of the buttress and then up to the top seen here (picture taken on descent)