Wasootch Tower attempt
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October 6, 2002
Scrambling with Mark.
This was an attempt to find a new scramble, not in Alan Kane's book. In was an interesting day, however, a fresh layer of new on steep, slabby terrain made conditions too dangerous and we turned back approximately halfway up.
Early morning colours in the Wasootch area
Our objective,
Wasootch Tower attempt
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October 11, 2003
Scrambling with Mark.
Our second attempt to find a scramble route up this shapely peak. We made far more progress than our attempt almost exactly one year earlier, but still came up short of the summit. Not knowing that there was a well-worn trail to the saddle, we took a more direct and steeper gully. At the saddle, a close examination of the summit block revealed that it appeared to be too steep to scramble up anywhere. Nevertheless, we weren't about to turn tail and run just yet!
In terms of a grade, I'll have to give us a "P" for perserverence. We tried about six different routes, including a steep, pre-bolted slope, about 30 meters to the left of the true ascent route. In our bulky scrambling boots, the slope was quite a challenge and so I sent Mark up first to do all the dirty (and difficult!) work. Eventually, that route failed for us and so we tried one more, even further left. This route definitely had the most potential, however, at this point, we were exhausted, both physically and mentally, and decided to call it a day. Thankfully, we found the trail on descent and enjoyed a very easy and leisurely return to the car.
At the saddle, with the climb behind me; the ascent route goes up the center, just left of the highpoint (unfortunately, we didn't know this at the time)
Mark ascending steep terrain at the beginning of the climb
Mark hooking the rope through pre-placed bolts on the steep slab, left of the true ascent route; this terrain is steeper than it looks and an unprotected fall would be very nasty
Me, ascending the route that Mark set up
Wasootch Tower
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October 18, 2003
Climbing with Mark.
It's official! Our first technical climb and after two previous attempts at this mountain, I think we deserved to finally reach the summit. The big difference was that I actually researched the mountain on the internet, and found out that there was an easy 5.4/5.5 climbing route up. At first it looked like we would suffer our third failure, as I struggled up the first section and then chickened out, when I couldn't find anywhere to place a protective sling. We wasted almost an hour when I found the section extremely difficult to downclimb without any protection.
Disappointed and dejected, we decided to try our last route on last week's failed attempt. However, on the way there, I thought that a route just to the left and around the other side of the rock looked a little more promising. I started up and found it to be considerably easier, with goods foot and handholds. From there, an exposed couple of steps across a gully, and then a steep, but very narrow gully, took us to the first bolt, where I gladly clipped in our rope.
The second pitch was a little tougher, and at one point I had to step on Mark's shoulders to get up a steep section (I'm sure purists are shaking their heads!). After that section, it was only a short distance to the top, however, it was quite steep and exposed and it was more or less nervous adrenaline that propelled me to the summit.
We celebrated our milestone at the summit, under beautifully clear skies. Unfortunately, it was also extremely windy and Mark's helmet was blown off his head and down the mountain to meet its untimely demise. The descent was fantastic! Two rappels from bolts - the second one down a vertical 5.10a climbing route. One of our most rewarding days ever in the mountains!
Wasootch Tower, as seen from Wasootch Creek
At the saddle, with the route behind me; this picture was taken when we got down.....hence the smile !!
Typical terrian on the climbing route; this was the 5.4 section
Mark ascending the final few meters of the route
At the summit of our first technical climb; another milestone!!
The same photo as above, but I've been replaced by a dead tree! Mount Lorette is at the left
A summit view of long Wasootch Ridge - a very enjoyable hike
The first rappel; the summit can be seen at the top left
The second rappel; we chose to rappel down the vertical 5.10a climbing route; rappelling down it was fun - I don't think in a million years I'd be able to climb up it!
Disappearing over the edge; the photo is deceiving - I am still about 15 meters above the ground at this point
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